FAQ's

We use the only professional quality paints from Sherwin Williams, Kelly Moore, Benjamin Moore and Dunn Edwards, unless the customer requests a different brand.

Yes, all of our work comes with a warranty.

Thank you for choosing Classic Shades Painting. We are sure you will not be disappointed. To schedule your job, please send us a signed proposal. You can fax or email it for expediency (Fax 415 566 4929; Email info@colorfull.ca). Someone will get in touch with you shortly to talk about colors, schedule, etc.

Maintaining open line of communication with you is very important to us. Your job foreman should be able to answer most questions but please feel free to contact your estimator or contact our office staff at any time to address concerns or answer any questions you may have whatsoever.

We never charge a fee to provide an estimate for your painting project.

The process can take as little as 4-5 days from the time we connect with you. However, the actual timing will depend on the condition of your paint surfaces, the type of work required, our schedule and weather conditions if the project involves exterior work.

During our consultation with you, we can evaluate your situation and let you know how long we think it will take to complete your painting project.

Yes. We schedule each job to be completed in consecutive days (M-F.)

We generally work M-F, 8-4:30 We can do work at other hours if needed, but these are our standard working hours.

Sheen refers to the light reflectivity of the painted or varnished surface. There are varying degrees of sheen, from no sheen to high gloss. Though some paint manufacturers may refer to their paint sheens by different names, generally, from lowest to highest, paint sheens correspond to these reflective degrees:

• Flat finish
• Eggshell finish
• Satin finish
• Semi gloss finish
• High gloss finish

They provide even light reflection and give the surface a softer, more uniform look.

They don’t highlight surface imperfections like higher sheen paints, so they usually don’t require as much surface preparation (like patching, texturing or sanding) prior to painting.

They are much less likely to show “lap marks”, so they are generally easier to apply and touch up than higher sheen paints. (When one painted section dries before the next section is painted, the two sections won’t flow together into a uniform film, resulting in a “lap mark.”)

They don’t need to be sanded or de-glossed before repainting, unlike higher sheen paints.

They are less stain and scuff resistant than higher sheen paints, so they should not be used on surfaces that will be handled, washed or scrubbed frequently.

They are less moisture resistant than higher sheen finishes, so they are not the best choice for areas that are exposed to high humidity levels, like in bathrooms, or on any surfaces that will be washed frequently.

They have better stain resistance, so they resist dirt pick up and stay cleaner longer.

They have better scuff and wear resistance, so they’re good for high traffic areas and on surfaces that are handled, washed or scrubbed frequently.

They have better moisture resistance, which makes them ideal for surfaces and areas that are frequently exposed to high humidity levels.

They tend to highlight any surface imperfections.

They are harder to touch up than lower sheen paints, because the higher sheen tends to highlight the slightly raised surface of the film where the touch up was done.

They usually need to be sanded, de-glossed or primed prior to repainting, to ensure good adhesion of the new paint.

Latex paints are more environmentally friendly than oil based paints. With oil based paints there are paint fumes to contend with that can be particularly bothersome on interior painting jobs. There is also a by product of dirty paint thinner that requires a trip to your local toxic waste site. (We always get rid of this waste as part of our work.)

There are other factors as well: Latex primers and finishes have been improving tremendously over the years and are very durable. For instance a latex finish on an exterior painting job will stay elastic for years, where oil based paint dries to form a hard and more brittle film. Surfaces expand and contract with weather. While the latex paint will move with the surface, the oil will tend to crack sooner with this movement.

The advantage of using oil paints is that it will give a smoother look as it tends to layout better on the surface and so not show brush marks as much as latex. Also, as was already mentioned, oil dries hard so it tends to be more washable than latex.

All paints, varnishes, and solvents contain volatile organic compounds, or VOCs. Exposure to VOCs can trigger asthma attacks, respiratory problems, eye irritation, nausea, or dizziness. Because of these health concerns, a number of paint manufacturers have introduced Low or No VOC paint alternatives.

Please let our office know about it or feel free to contact your estimator directly. Most of the time it is more cost-effective for us to make a change or do additional during the course of the project than to have us come back after the project is complete.

The cost of a job is usually determined by the level of thoroughness, attention to detail, and quality desired. It costs more to properly prepare a surface for painting than to just pressure clean and scrape the surface. The majority of the cost of painting is in the surface preparation and the labor involved in the application of the paint and not the actual cost of the paint itself. As with most other industries, generally you get what you pay for.

We keep a close eye on the weather and weather forecasts. If it start raining while we are in the middle of a painting job, we simply stop and return after it drys up.

Acrylic (latex) paint dries much faster than Alkyd (oil). Usually a couple of hours is plenty of time. Oil paint though should dry overnight. Flat paint may dry faster than semi gloss.

A payment schedule is outlined in our contact. We will invoice you accordingly and will expect to be paid at that time.

Generally an exterior painting job will need to be redone every 5-10 years. Stucco tends to last longer, wood on the other hand expands and contracts more with changing temperatures which loosens the paint sooner.

It is best not to put off your exterior painting until the house is badly peeling. When it gets to that condition, it will end up costing you more in preparation time and possibly dry rot repair work.

If however the property is in a bad condition when you get to it, do yourself a favor – go the extra length and ensure that thorough surface preparation is done. The idea is to create a sound surface for the new coats to adhere to. This requires more time but is necessary for the paint job to last.

Interior paint typically gets dirty in many situations: hand prints around switches and knobs; splashes in kitchens and bathrooms; marks on hallways and corridors; “soot” accumulating above electric lamps and other heat sources. Removing dirt before it accumulates not only improves appearance, it reduces chances of it getting permanently embedded in the paint film.

Check for dirt periodically and assume it will be present in and near cooking areas (airborne cooking oil) and at all places at hand height. Always initially clean the surface with a mild detergent using a sponge or a soft cloth. Resort to harsher cleaners only when necessary, recognizing that alkaline cleaners can dull the sheen or gloss of oil based paint. Abrasive cleaner will burnish nearly any paint and will dull the gloss of satin, semigloss and gloss products. Washed surfaces should be rinsed thoroughly because residual cleaner can interfere with adhesion of paint applied later.